Forget the glossy guide books that send you to the same tourist traps around Piazza del Plebiscito. If you want to understand how Neapolitans actually spend their evenings, you need to dive into Quartieri Spagnoli after sunset. This is where the real aperitivo happens—no pretense, no inflated prices for a view, just good drinks, loud conversations, and the kind of energy that makes Naples, well, Naples.
The Quartieri—that's what we call them—get a bad reputation. You'll read warnings about pickpockets and danger, and yes, keep your wits about you like you would anywhere in a big city. But the truth? These narrow alleys lined with laundry and scooters are where you'll find the most authentic slice of Neapolitan life after dark. The aperitivo scene here ranges from €1 plastic cups of spritz to sophisticated natural wine bars, and I'm going to tell you exactly where to go and what to order.
Start Where the Students Go: The €1 Spritz Bars
Let's address the elephant in the room: Cammarota Spritz. Located at Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 31, this tiny bar has become almost too famous for its own good. They serve Aperol spritz for €1—yes, one euro—and the narrow street outside is packed every single night from noon until nearly midnight. The spritz comes in a plastic cup, it's small, and the quality is exactly what you'd expect for that price. But here's the thing: it's a rite of passage, and the atmosphere is electric.
The crowd skews young—university students, backpackers, and anyone who wants to start their evening without emptying their wallet. Music pumps from the speakers, people spill out into the alley, and by 9 PM you can barely move. Papa Lello, the owner, runs a tight ship despite the chaos. One crucial tip: ask specifically for a "spritz piccolo" or "one euro spritz." They have different sizes, and if you don't specify, they'll automatically give you a larger, more expensive one. Follow them on Instagram @cammarotaspritz.
If Cammarota has a line snaking around the corner—which it often does—don't panic. Head to Pisadog 19 at Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 31, literally next door. Same deal, same price, slightly less mayhem. Or walk up to A'picio Spritz on Vico Lungo Trinità degli Spagnoli, where you'll find a few tables and a bit more breathing room.
Here's my honest take: these €1 spritz spots are fun for one round, maybe two. The prosecco is cheap, the Aperol is watered down, and you're drinking out of plastic. But they're an essential part of the Quartieri experience, and they're perfect for a spritz crawl before you move on to better things.
Where to Actually Taste Your Drink
Once you've had your budget spritz and absorbed the student energy, it's time to graduate to bars where they actually care about what's in your glass.
Ex Falegnameria Quartieri Spagnoli is tucked away in the maze of streets near Santa Maria Francesca Delle Cinque Piaghe. This cocktail and wine bar is run by a young owner who knows his spirits. The space is small and characteristic—exactly what you want from a neighborhood bar in the Quartieri—with prices that stay reasonable (€5-10 range). The owner will chat with you about the drinks, make solid recommendations, and actually craft a proper cocktail. It's open from early afternoon until late, and it's popular with locals who want something better than a plastic cup but don't want Chiaia prices.
For natural wine lovers, Puteca Wine Bar on Gradoni di Chiaia 70 is essential. Claudio, the owner, has built something special here—a natural wine spot with a "scenographic dehors" (basically, tables precariously balanced on the historic steps that connect the Quartieri to Chiaia). He's knowledgeable, welcoming, and passionate about low-intervention wines from small Italian producers. Glasses run €7-8, bottles are available to buy and take home, and the vibe is relaxed. The location is stunning—you're sitting on ancient stone steps as the sun sets over the neighborhood. Open daily except for occasional closures, so check their Instagram @puteca_winebar first.
Indovino is another solid choice for natural wines and craft beers with a typical aperitivo setup. It's easy, unpretentious, and draws a mixed crowd of locals and savvy travelers. Prices hover around €6-10 per drink, and they offer small bites to accompany your glass.
The Art Bar That Actually Gets It Right
Vernissage at Via Vincenzo Bellini 34 bills itself as a "sustainable cocktail bar & food area," and unlike most places that slap "sustainable" on their sign and call it a day, they mean it. The space is designed to host art exhibitions, live music, and cultural events, with flexible seating and rotating artwork on the walls. They focus on zero-kilometer products, seasonal ingredients, and natural wines alongside well-crafted cocktails.
Open Monday and Wednesday-Sunday from 6 PM onwards (closed Tuesdays), Vernissage attracts a slightly older, more design-conscious crowd than the spritz bars. The cocktails are €8-12, the pizza in teglia (pan pizza) is excellent, and the overall experience feels distinctly Neapolitan while still being refined. Follow them at @vernissagenapoli to see what events and exhibitions are happening.
How to Navigate the Quartieri at Night
First, know where you are. The Quartieri Spagnoli are bounded by Via Toledo to the east—the main shopping street where you'll find the stunning Toledo metro station. The neighborhood is built on a slope, with a grid of narrow alleys and stone staircases. It's easy to get disoriented, which is half the fun, but keep Via Toledo in mind as your reference point.
Take the Metro Linea 1 to Toledo station or Montesanto station. Both put you right at the edge of the Quartieri. From Toledo, any street heading west takes you into the heart of the neighborhood. The walk from the port or centro storico is also manageable—15-20 minutes.
Start your evening around 6:30-7 PM when the aperitivo hour begins. The Quartieri come alive as the sun drops and the oppressive afternoon heat breaks. By 9 PM, every bar is packed, the streets are buzzing, and you'll hear a dozen conversations in Neapolitan dialect echoing off the buildings.
Dress comfortably and practically. These streets are cobblestone and sloped—stilettos are a liability. The vibe is casual and real, not polished or fancy. Bring cash for the cheaper spots (Cammarota only takes cash), though most sit-down bars accept cards.
Safety-wise, use common sense. Don't flash expensive jewelry or leave your phone sitting on a table. The Quartieri have a reputation, but honestly, if you're alert and respectful, you'll be fine. The real danger is more likely a speeding scooter than anything else.
End the Night the Neapolitan Way
After you've worked your way through the aperitivo bars, there's one more essential stop, though technically it's just outside the Quartieri. Gran Caffè Gambrinus at Via Chiaia 1, right on the corner of Piazza del Plebiscito, has been serving coffee since 1860. Open until 11 PM daily, this is where you end a proper Neapolitan night—with a strong espresso (maybe a caffè alla nocciola, coffee with hazelnut cream) and a sfogliatella or babà .
Yes, it's touristy. Yes, it's more expensive than a neighborhood bar. But Gambrinus is an institution, and there's something perfect about standing at the bar after midnight, watching the piazza lights, and drinking an espresso that tastes like history. The Liberty-style interior is gorgeous, the service is professional, and if you order at the bar (rather than sitting at a table), prices stay reasonable—around €2-3 for an espresso.
What the Guidebooks Won't Tell You
The beauty of the Quartieri isn't the individual bars—it's the experience of wandering the narrow streets, hearing lives played out in windows above you, stumbling into a tiny basement bar you'd never find on a map, and drinking alongside Neapolitans who couldn't care less that you're a tourist.
Don't expect spotless bathrooms or Instagram-perfect aesthetics. Do expect loud music, louder conversations, dogs wandering through bars, and a beautiful chaos that you'll either love or hate. There's no middle ground with the Quartieri.
Skip the overpriced aperitivo buffets in Chiaia. Skip the rooftop bars charging €15 for a spritz with a view. Come to the Quartieri Spagnoli, start with a €1 spritz from Cammarota, work your way up to natural wine at Puteca, and end with an espresso at Gambrinus. That's how you do aperitivo in Naples.
Welcome to our neighborhood. Now go get yourself a drink.