Walk through the tourist center of Florence and you'll see them: enormous raw steaks displayed in restaurant windows like trophies, menus in six languages, and prices that make even wealthy visitors wince. These places serve bistecca alla fiorentina, sure—but they're not where I eat it.
The real bistecca scene in Florence exists in neighborhood trattorias where the menu is handwritten daily, where locals argue about Fiorentina football over house wine, and where you'll be gently corrected if you try to order your steak "well done." This is a dish with rules, traditions, and a bit of theater—and if you know how to navigate it, you'll have one of the best meals of your life.
What Makes Bistecca Alla Fiorentina Special
Before we talk about where to eat it, you need to understand what you're ordering. Bistecca alla fiorentina isn't just any T-bone steak. It's a specific cut from the loin, traditionally from Chianina cattle—an ancient breed from Val di Chiana that's one of the world's largest. These massive white cows were originally used as draft animals, but now they're prized for their lean, flavorful meat.
The steak must be cut thick—three to four fingers high (yes, we actually measure it that way). It weighs anywhere from 1 to 1.5 kilograms minimum, sometimes up to 2 kilograms. This is not a solo meal. A proper bistecca is meant to be shared between two or three people, carved at the table, with everyone cutting their preferred slice from the communal platter.
The cooking method matters just as much as the meat. A real bistecca is grilled over wood coals or olive wood embers—never gas, which leaves a strange taste. It's seared on the outside, charred in places, and rare on the inside. Very rare. If you ask for it cooked more, you'll get varying reactions depending on where you are. Some places will accommodate you with a resigned sigh. Others—the old-guard trattorias—will refuse outright. This isn't rudeness; it's pride in doing things the right way.
The Rules You Need to Know
Here's what locals know that tourists don't:
Price and ordering: Bistecca is sold by weight, not per portion. Expect to pay €50-70 per kilogram at most places, though prices can vary. Before cooking, many restaurants will show you the raw steak and confirm the weight. This is your chance to see exactly what you're paying for and to verify the quality.
It comes alone: Your bistecca will arrive on a wooden cutting board with a bottle of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and nothing else. No sides. No garnish. You drizzle the oil over the meat, add a bit of coarse salt and pepper, and that's it. To accompany it, you need to order contorni (side dishes) separately from the menu.
The essential sides: Order fagioli al fiasco—white cannellini beans cooked with sage and garlic, traditionally in a flask over hot embers. Also get roasted potatoes or spinach sautéed in olive oil (spinaci ripassati). These aren't afterthoughts—they're part of the ritual.
Wine matters: Order a Tuscan red. Chianti Classico is traditional. Brunello di Montalcino if you're splurging. House wine works fine at casual trattorias. What doesn't work: white wine, beer, or asking for cocktails with your steak.
Reservations are essential: The good places fill up days in advance, especially for dinner. Always book ahead.
Where Florentines Actually Eat It
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi — Piazza San Lorenzo 8r
This fourth-generation family trattoria in San Lorenzo is where I take friends who want the real Florence experience. It's only open for lunch (noon-3pm, closed Sundays), no reservations accepted—you write your name at the door and wait. The menu is handwritten daily on a simple sheet of paper in Italian only. Paper placemats, marble tables from the 1800s, house wine served by the quarter or half liter.
The bistecca here is excellent, but so is everything else: their peposo (peppery beef stew), braised meats, and daily pasta specials. Prices are honest—this is one of the most affordable places on this list. The service is fast, efficient, and refreshingly no-nonsense. Go after 1:30pm if you want to avoid the longest lines, though you'll still wait a bit. It's worth it.
Regina Bistecca — Via Ricasoli 14r
Steps from the Duomo, Regina Bistecca occupies the space of a former antiquarian bookshop, and the atmosphere reflects that history—exposed brick, vintage chandeliers, bookshelves lining the walls. This is the modern, upscale face of bistecca culture, where attention to detail meets tradition.
What sets Regina apart is the selection: they offer multiple breeds (Chianina, Maremmana, Scottish Black Angus) and different aging periods (21-50 days). The staff is knowledgeable and will explain your options without being pretentious. They present the raw cut for approval, grill it over vegetable charcoal in their Josper grill, and let it rest at exactly 51°C before serving. On your tenth visit, they give you an engraved knife—that's how confident they are about repeat customers.
Yes, it's more expensive than neighborhood trattorias, and yes, tourists eat here. But the quality justifies both. Make reservations well ahead. See location.
Buca Lapi — Via del Trebbio 1r
Florence's oldest restaurant, opened in 1880 in the cellars of Palazzo Antinori. When you descend the stairs into these vaulted rooms covered with vintage posters and advertisements, you're stepping into history. This is a place that takes tradition seriously—maybe the most seriously in Florence.
The bistecca here is cooked over olive wood embers from the Antinori estates. It arrives rare, always rare, beautifully charred on the outside. Don't ask for it cooked more—this is not the place for that conversation. The wine list focuses heavily on Antinori wines, which makes sense given the location. It's pricier than most, but you're paying for both quality and atmosphere. Book far ahead—this is a popular spot. Find it here.
Antico Ristoro di Cambi — Via Sant'Onofrio 1r (Oltrarno)
Over in my neighborhood of Oltrarno, away from the tourist center, Cambi has been serving locals since the 1950s. The dining room is simple—white walls, wooden tables, no pretense. The steak speaks for itself.
What I love about Cambi is that it still feels like a neighborhood place despite being in guidebooks now. You'll hear Italian conversations at most tables, see families celebrating together, watch regulars greet the staff by name. The bistecca runs about €50 per kilo, and the portions are generous. The fagioli all'uccelletta (beans in tomato sauce) are particularly good here. Open for both lunch and dinner.
Trattoria Sostanza — Via del Porcellana 25r
Known locally as "Il Troia," this tiny place has been around for over 150 years. Picture-frame covered walls, communal tables, and a menu that hasn't changed much in decades. Make reservations well ahead—I'm not exaggerating when I say this is one of the hardest reservations to get in Florence.
The bistecca here comes in smaller portions than most (around 500g each), which makes it feasible if you're only two people and not that hungry. But what makes Sostanza special isn't just the steak—it's their butter chicken and artichoke omelet, dishes you won't find anywhere else. Open Monday-Friday only, lunch 12:30-2pm and dinner 7:30-9pm.
How to Actually Order (Step by Step)
You've chosen your restaurant, made a reservation, and arrived hungry. Now what?
1. Start with one course, maybe two: Ordering an antipasto (starter) and primo (pasta) before your bistecca is ambitious. Most locals order the steak with sides and that's it. If you're particularly hungry, choose one first course—maybe ribollita in winter or pappa al pomodoro in summer.
2. Confirm the weight: When ordering, ask "Quanto pesa?" (How much does it weigh?) A bistecca for two should be 1.2-1.4 kilograms. If you're three people or have big appetites, ask for something closer to 1.5-2 kilograms.
3. Choose your contorni: Order at least two sides: fagioli (beans) and either potatoes or greens. Three sides is better if you're sharing a large steak among multiple people.
4. Pick your wine: A bottle of Chianti, a half-liter of house red, or something nicer from the wine list if you're celebrating.
5. When it arrives: The waiter may carve it at your table, or they'll bring it whole for you to serve yourselves. Either way, drizzle that olive oil over everything, add salt and pepper to taste, and cut slices however thick you like them.
6. Don't rush: Eating bistecca is not a quick meal. It's meant to be savored, ideally over a long lunch or leisurely dinner. You'll be here a while—embrace it.
What to Avoid
The biggest mistakes tourists make are easy to avoid:
Don't order it well-done: Just don't. If you genuinely can't eat rare meat, order something else—there are plenty of other incredible dishes in Florence. Asking for well-done bistecca marks you as someone who doesn't understand the dish, and you won't enjoy it anyway at that temperature.
Don't go to restaurants with picture menus: If the menu has glossy photos and is printed in six languages, keep walking. These places exist to extract money from tourists, not to serve good food.
Don't eat bistecca multiple times in one trip: This is rich, expensive, and—while delicious—somewhat one-note. Have it once or twice during your Florence visit, and spend the rest of your meals exploring other Tuscan dishes.
Don't skip the olive oil: I've watched tourists do this, and it pains me. That bottle of olive oil isn't decorative—it's essential. Drizzle it generously over the meat. It adds flavor and richness that makes the whole dish sing.
The Bottom Line
Bistecca alla fiorentina is expensive, indulgent, and absolutely worth it when done right. Go to one of these neighborhood places, follow the rules, order it rare, share it with good company, and pair it with a decent Tuscan red. Do that, and you'll understand why Florentines have been eating this way for centuries.
The steak isn't just food—it's a statement about how we value tradition, quality ingredients, and taking time to eat well. Welcome to Florence. Now pass the olive oil.