The coastal path from Nervi to Bogliasco is one of those hikes that makes me grateful I grew up here. In less than two hours of walking, you'll experience everything that defines the Ligurian coast: dramatic cliffside views of the Portofino promontory, terraced olive groves that have been here for centuries, and a charming fishing village where you can reward yourself with the best focaccia on the eastern Riviera.
This isn't one of those trails where you disappear into the wilderness for hours. You're always close to civilization, with train stations at both ends, making it perfect for a morning hike followed by lunch and a swim. Most importantly, this route gives you a genuine slice of Ligurian coastal life without the crowds that swarm Cinque Terre.
Getting There and Starting in Nervi
Take the train to Genova Nervi station on the Genoa-La Spezia line. The station sits right on the seafront promenade, making it impossible to get lost. From central Genoa (Brignole station), it's a 15-minute ride and trains run every 20-30 minutes throughout the day.
Start your day with the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, Nervi's famous seaside promenade. This 2-kilometer paved walkway was built along an ancient fishermen's path and offers stunning views of the jagged Nerviese coast. Walk east from the station toward Capolungo beach, passing the elegant Nervi Parks on your left. The promenade itself is easy—completely flat and paved—so save your energy for what comes next.
The walk takes about 30-40 minutes at a leisurely pace. Go early if you can—the morning light on the water is spectacular, and you'll avoid the crowds of joggers and families that fill the path by mid-morning.
Where the Real Hike Begins: Capolungo to Sant'Ilario
At the far eastern end of the promenade, you'll reach Capolungo beach. This is where the paved comfort ends and the actual hike begins. Look for the path marked as Via Romero (or Salita alla Chiesa di Sant'Ilario on some signs). This ancient creuza—that's the Ligurian word for a narrow stone path—climbs steeply uphill through terraced gardens and olive groves.
Don't let "steep" scare you off. The climb to Sant'Ilario takes only about 20 minutes, and the path is well-maintained with occasional benches where you can catch your breath. This is classic Ligurian terrain: stone walls supporting agricultural terraces that have been cultivated for centuries, wild herbs growing between the rocks, and increasingly dramatic views back toward Genoa and the Portofino promontory.
You'll emerge at the small hilltop village of Sant'Ilario, about 200 meters above sea level. The 18th-century Church of Sant'Ilario sits in a small square with panoramic views. This is Genoa's last neighborhood before you cross into Bogliasco's territory. Take a moment here—the views of the Gulf of Paradise are worth it.
The Descent to Bogliasco
From Sant'Ilario, the path continues as Via dei Marsano (or Via dei Tasso, depending on which route you take from the square—they converge). This section descends through more olive groves and Mediterranean vegetation toward Bogliasco. The total descent takes about 30-40 minutes.
The trail here is less traveled than the Nervi promenade, so you'll likely encounter more locals than tourists. Keep an eye out for the occasional lizard sunning itself on the stone walls and the incredible variety of wildflowers in spring. The sea appears and disappears through the trees as you descend, building anticipation for your arrival in Bogliasco.
The path eventually connects with more established roads as you enter Bogliasco Alto (upper Bogliasco) and winds down toward the waterfront. Follow the signs toward "Centro" or simply head downhill—you can't miss the sea.
What to Do in Bogliasco
You'll arrive in the heart of Bogliasco, a village that somehow escaped mass tourism despite being only 13 kilometers from Genoa. The colorful houses cascade down to a small beach, a medieval Roman bridge arches over a tiny channel, and the whole scene feels pleasantly stuck in time.
Head straight to La Focacceria della Piazza on Piazza Unità d'Italia. This historic bakery has been making focaccia since 1958, and their warm, olive oil-soaked focaccia is exactly what your legs need after that hike. Get it plain or with onions—both are perfect. They also make excellent farinata (chickpea flatbread) and vegetable tarts if you want variety.
If you're ready for a proper meal, walk along Via Giuseppe Mazzini to Il Vagabondo (Via Giuseppe Mazzini 88) for casual focaccia sandwiches and aperitifs, or Il Bistrotto (Via Giuseppe Mazzini 183) for a sea-view table and excellent cocktails. For serious seafood, La Caletta 2019 sits right on the waterfront promenade at Piazza Unità d'Italia—order the trofie al pesto (Liguria's signature pasta with basil pesto) or anything with local anchovies.
The main beach stretches about 200 meters from the medieval bridge to the eastern end of the village. It's a mix of sand and pebbles with both free areas and beach clubs. The water is clean and typically calm in the protected bay. For a quieter spot, walk toward Genoa and you'll find Sotto Chiesa beach below the Church of the Nativity—smaller, rockier, and usually less crowded.
Visit the 12th-century Church of the Nativity of Mary Most Holy (Chiesa della Natività di Maria Santissima) in the center of the village. The Roman bridge, called Ponte Medioevale, is worth a photo—it's one of the best-preserved ancient bridges on this coast.
Timing and Practical Details
The entire hike from Nervi station to Bogliasco center covers about 5-6 kilometers and takes 1.5 to 2 hours depending on your pace and how often you stop for photos. The elevation gain is approximately 200 meters up to Sant'Ilario, then back down to sea level.
Best times to go: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer perfect temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer works but start early—by 10 AM it gets hot on the exposed sections. Winter is fine for experienced hikers, but paths can be slippery after rain.
What to bring: Comfortable hiking shoes with good grip (the stone paths get slippery), water (at least 1 liter), sunscreen, and a hat. The climb to Sant'Ilario has limited shade. Bring swimwear if you plan to hit the beach in Bogliasco.
Getting back: Bogliasco has its own train station about 400 meters from the beach (a 5-minute walk up Via Cavour). Trains run frequently back to Genoa or continue east toward Camogli, Portofino, and beyond. Check the Trenitalia app for schedules.
Difficulty level: This is an easy-to-moderate hike suitable for anyone with basic fitness. The steepest section (Capolungo to Sant'Ilario) is short, and the rest is manageable. Families with older children (8+) handle it fine.
One Final Tip
If you want to extend this into a longer day, continue east from Bogliasco. The coastal trail network continues through Pieve Ligure and Sori toward Recco, famous for its cheese-filled focaccia di Recco. Each village has a train station, so you can hop on whenever you're done. But honestly? Nervi to Bogliasco is the perfect length for a morning hike followed by lunch, a swim, and a relaxed train ride home.
The Ligurian coast has plenty of famous spots that deserve their reputation, but this little stretch between Nervi and Bogliasco remains pleasantly overlooked. That's exactly why I keep coming back.