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Cividale del Friuli is a town founded by Julius Caesar in 50 BC. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with some of the rarest medieval art in Europe. And almost nobody visits.
I come here when Venice gets too crowded, which is often. It is only two hours by train with a change in Udine, but it feels like a different world. The town sits on the Natisone River, split by a gorge and connected by a medieval bridge that locals say was built by the devil. The water is emerald green and the old town perches above it on both sides.
What makes Cividale special is the Tempietto Longobardo, an 8th century chapel with stucco figures unlike anything else that survives from that period. Most days you will be one of only a handful of visitors. This is a town for people who are tired of crowds. For people who want to sit in a piazza with a glass of Friulano wine and watch actual residents go about their day.
10 Unmissable Things To Do
1. Cross the Ponte del Diavolo at sunset
The Devil's Bridge is the symbol of Cividale. According to legend, the townspeople asked the devil for help building it and he agreed in exchange for the first soul to cross. They sent a cat. The bridge spans a deep gorge over emerald green water and the views at sunset are incredible. Walk to the far side and look back at the town. This is the photo you want.
2. Visit the Tempietto Longobardo
This tiny 8th century chapel is the reason Cividale is a UNESCO site. The stucco figures of six female saints are hauntingly beautiful and completely unique. Nothing else like them survives from this period. It is inside the Monastery of Santa Maria in Valle and costs a few euros to enter. Go slowly. The details reward close attention.
3. Wander Piazza Paolo Diacono
This is the main square, named after a famous Lombard historian who was born here. It is surrounded by medieval buildings in different colors, with cafes spilling out onto the stones. Grab a seat, order a spritz or a glass of Ribolla Gialla, and just sit. Nobody will rush you.
4. Explore the Ipogeo Celtico
This is strange and wonderful. An underground chamber carved into the rock, possibly dating to pre-Roman times. Nobody is entirely sure what it was used for. You get the key from a nearby bar, descend the stairs alone, and stand in the dark imagining who might have stood there thousands of years before you. It is a little spooky and completely memorable.
5. See the Cathedral and its treasures
The Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta sits on Piazza del Duomo and contains the Altar of Ratchis, an 8th century carved stone altarpiece that is one of the most important Lombard artifacts in existence. The attached Museo Cristiano has more treasures including the Baptistery of Callisto. Do not skip the museum.
6. Walk down to the river
There are paths that lead down from the old town to the banks of the Natisone. In summer, locals swim in the clear green water. Even if you do not swim, sitting by the river looking up at the bridge and the town above is a peaceful way to spend an hour.
7. Visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale
Housed in a palazzo designed by Palladio, this museum has Roman jewelry, Lombard goldwork, and Byzantine mosaics. It is small enough to see in an hour and gives good context for everything else you see in town.
8. Find the Chiesa di San Pietro e San Biagio
This tiny church is easy to miss but worth seeking out. The facade is covered in colorful 16th century frescoes that have somehow survived the centuries. It is on a quiet street east of the main sights.
9. Take a day trip to the Collio wine region
The hills around Cividale produce some of Italy's best white wines. Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Pinot Grigio. Many small producers offer tastings. If you have a car, spend an afternoon driving through the vineyards. If not, some wineries can arrange pickup.
10. Just get lost
Cividale is small enough that you cannot really get lost, but try anyway. The streets twist and turn and reveal little courtyards, ancient doorways, and views you did not expect. Leave the map in your pocket for an hour.
10 Places to Eat or Drink
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1. Ristorante Al Monastero
Set inside an old monastery with brick arches and a beautiful courtyard. The food is traditional Friulian and very good. Try the frico (crispy cheese with potatoes) and any of their homemade pasta. Perfect for a special dinner.
2. Frasca da Gianni
A short walk from the center. Rustic setting with countryside decorations and excellent local food at fair prices. The frico here is one of the best I have had. Casual and friendly.
3. Antico Leon d'Oro
Traditional Friulian cuisine with outdoor seating on a quiet street. Good for lunch or dinner. They have been serving food here for over a century.
4. Al Campanile
Right next to the Cathedral. Simple trattoria with typical Friulian dishes. Good value and convenient location if you are visiting the Duomo.
5. 4S Ristorantino Pizzeria
Locals rate this as the best pizza in town. Also does good pasta. Friendly service and reasonable prices. A reliable casual option.
6. Osteria alla Terrazza
More refined than some others, with good fish dishes and tasting menus. The terrace has views over the valley. Worth it for a longer meal.
7. Alla Frasca
A bit outside the center but worth the walk. Cozy atmosphere with a fireplace in winter. Good wine list and menu that changes with the seasons.
8. Caffè Longobardo
Historic cafe in the center. Good for morning coffee or afternoon aperitivo. Nice atmosphere even if the food is simple.
9. Il Santo e Il Lupo
A pub with good beer and simple food like paninis. Good option for a casual evening drink without a full meal.
10. Any wine bar in the center
Cividale has several small enotecas where you can taste local wines by the glass. Friuli makes excellent whites and you should try them while you are here. Ask for Ribolla Gialla or Friulano to start.
Where to stay
Cividale is small so location matters less than it would in a big city. Anywhere in the historic center puts you within walking distance of everything.
In the centro storico: There are several small hotels and B&Bs in the old town. Hotel Roma near the center is well reviewed and practical. Being able to walk out your door and immediately be in the medieval streets is nice.
Just above town: Locanda al Castello sits on a hill with views over Cividale. More elegant atmosphere and they have wellness facilities. Good if you want something special.
In the countryside: Consider staying at an agriturismo in the surrounding hills. You will need a car but the setting is peaceful and you will be closer to the wineries. Good for a slower pace.
In Udine: If you prefer a larger town with more restaurant options and nightlife, Udine is only 20 minutes away by train. You could base there and visit Cividale as a day trip, though I think staying in Cividale itself is worth it for the atmosphere.
Know Before You Go
Getting there: From Venice, take a train to Udine (about 2 hours) then change to a local train to Cividale (20 minutes). The Cividale station is a short walk from the historic center. If you have a car, parking is available outside the old town.
Best time to visit: Spring and fall are ideal. The weather is pleasant and the town is quiet. Summer can be warm but locals swim in the river which looks very inviting. Winter is cold but atmospheric if you do not mind fewer open terraces.
How much time: One full day is enough to see the main sights. Two days lets you slow down and maybe visit a winery. You could also combine Cividale with Udine for a longer trip.
Language: This is not a tourist town so less English is spoken than in Venice or Rome. Basic Italian phrases help. People are friendly and patient.
Money: Bring some cash. Smaller restaurants and wine bars may not take cards.
The Tempietto hours: Check opening times before you go. Winter hours are more limited and it closes on Tuesdays. It would be a shame to miss it.
Combine with: Udine is worth a visit for its Venetian architecture and lively piazzas. San Daniele, famous for prosciutto, is nearby. If you are driving, the Collio wine region and even Slovenia are easy to reach.
What to eat: Friulian cuisine is hearty and delicious. Frico is the signature dish: crispy fried cheese with potatoes. Also try cjarsons (stuffed pasta), musetto (sausage), and gubana (a sweet bread with nuts and grappa). The local wines are excellent, especially the whites.
Why it matters: Cividale is proof that Italy has incredible places most visitors never see. Coming here feels like being let in on a secret. The history is real, the food is good, the people are welcoming, and nobody is trying to sell you anything. That is increasingly rare in Italy and worth protecting.